Here is the metal disc that provides for even distribution of the pressure of the adjusting screw across the new diaphragm spring. | 
We found that a small dab of Vaseline helped hold the disc in place during reassembly. | 
As we prepare for installation of the new injectors, we noted the different overall length of the new injectors in order to determine the correct groove for locating the injector locating ring. No instructions were included with the new injectors. A few helpful hints would have made the installation faster, easier, and less stressful. |
Dirt is a major enemy of fuel-injection systems, especially because of the fine orifices throughout the system. any debris in the fuel system is a likely cause of a future leak, which is not a good thing on the hot engine of a plastic car, so be sure to clean all related parts and areas carefully with lint-free cloths. | 
Steady, even pressure is needed to squeeze the new injector into place, overcoming the friction of the new o-ring. | 
Freshly rebuilt, the fuel-rail assembly is lowered back into place to start the reassembly process. |
To ensure that no debris contaminates our new fuel-system components, we replaced the fuel filter, which hides above the right front framerail, partially obscured by our previously installed cross-frame stiffener. We had to remove the bolts and the heat shield that protects the filter and lines from the heat generated by the catalytic converter. | 
you'll also need to adjust the newly installed fuel-pressure regulator. Recommended spec is 40.5-47 psi with key on, pump running, and vacuum line disconnected. | |
Reassembly of the fuel rail, plenum, and runners is a straightforward reversal of the removal process. You'll want to turn the key on and allow the in-tank fuel pump to fill the lines with fuel before initial start-up, and check for any fuel leaks that might represent a personality conflict with a hot engine.